Kalalau Trail hike in Kauai, HI

In July of this year, I completed the Kalalau Trail hike on the Nā Pali Coast of Kauai in Hawaii. I decided to share my experience with others who are either already planning to travel to Kauai or who may become inspired to do so.

But first, briefly about the trail. Kalalau Trail is an 11-mile long trail along the Nā Pali Coast of Kauai island in Hawaii. It is considered to be one of the most difficult hikes in the US. Hikers typically camp along the trail before heading back.

The decision to do the hike came up quite spontaneously as I was coming up with a list of things to do while traveling to Kauai. I had already visited Oahu, Maui, and Hawaii islands, so Kauai was the last major one for me to explore.

Reading about the Nā Pali Coast and Kalalau Trail, I realized my exploration of the North Shore was not guaranteed due to the limited number of required camping permits available to enter the Nā Pali Coast State Park. Not only were camping permits limited, but so were overnight parking permits and shuttle bus passes running from the trailhead to the nearest towns for those who did not get overnight parking.

Using the booking system of Hawaii DLNR, I was able to find a camping permit for one of the days of my visit to Hawaii. I couldn't secure an overnight parking spot but fortunately got a North Shore shuttle bus ticket for 10 am going to the trail and a return ticket for 4:15 pm the next day. Those were the best time slots I could get. Based on some online research, I decided to stay at the Makai Resort of Princeville, where I left the rental car and valuables for the duration of the hike.

Getting to the trailhead

Since my North Shore shuttle pass was for 10 am, I decided to take an Uber to get to the trailhead earlier. I started the Uber ride at 7:30 am. It would normally take about 25-30 min to reach the trailhead from Princeville, but instead, it took a full hour due to road repairs and, for some portion of the road, a local pickup truck going way below the speed limit, "controlling" the traffic behind it.

Start of the hike

The first couple of miles are very beautiful, and you can see the cliffs of the Nā Pali Coast through lush tropical forest.

After about 2 miles, hikers reach Hanakapi’ai Beach where Hanakapi’ai Stream falls into the Pacific Ocean

Swimming in ocean water is not recommended here due to strong currents.

Hanakapi’ai Beach is the last point where hikers without a camping permit are allowed. The trail afterwards is much less crowded. After a brief break, I was ready to continue the adventure. I realized my old Adidas running sneakers provided a good grip on underwater rocks, and I would be crossing all streams in them.

Arrows on the trail.

I found this arrow on the trail and moved it aside. It makes me wonder how often hunting arrows fall directly where they may hit a hiker.

Food and staying hydrated

As I was making progress along the trail and started feeling hungry, I realized the food I had with me was very unappealing, and I was not looking forward to having it, even though I was getting exhausted. I had a bunch of protein bars that were very sweet and had an unnatural artificial flavor. I wish I had apples or bananas to reward myself. Throughout the hike, drinking water was what I was constantly craving. I had to control my consumption, as the entire 4.5L I had with me each way was barely enough. On my way back, things were complicated by the fact that I had to drink stream water collected at the campsite waterfall and disinfected with iodine pills. It looked and tasted awful. On my way back, I saw a coconut tree and an unopened coconut lying next to it. Well, what can you do with a coconut if you don't have a knife and have to hurry to catch the shuttle bus?!

Mile 7 Crawlers ledge

As I approached this portion of the trail, a light rain with a breeze started. It had a nice cooling effect, but I was concerned it would not stop and that I might end up stuck on the slippery rocks of the trail. Holding and leaning on the left side of the trail, I passed through most of the ledge. On the narrowest, most uneven part going downwards, I crawled for a few feet, as I did not fully trust my balance with the massive backpack I was carrying. Going back felt easier, as the wall was on my right-hand side.

Losing the trail occasionally

In a couple of instances, I lost my way by following hippie or goat trails. One trail took me to a shelter with bottles and rubber pipes lying around, protected by trees.

Beautiful valley and signs of the beach in the distance

A couple of miles after the Crawlers Ledge, I came across an epic view of Kalalau Valley. I also saw the Kalalau beach in the distance. I was happy to be getting closer to the destination.

Arrival

On my arrival, I was surprised by how empty the campsite was. There was a group of local fishermen and several couples spread out across multiple campsites. First, I checked out the various spots and eventually set up camp under a tree by the beach.

After taking a nap in the tent I was in a blissful state, listening to the sound of the ocean.

Moon/Star gazing

One of the nicest moments was just lying on the beach at night, hearing nothing but waves (no helicopter tours at night!) and just gazing at the moon and constellations. The temperature was perfect, and the beach was illuminated by the moonlight.

Time to go back

Early in the morning, I packed my tent, filled bottles with water from the nearby stream, and headed back.

Overheating

Hiking back was faster (6 hrs vs 9 hrs), but the last few miles made me feel miserable. I noticed that my physical condition and performance very much depended on whether I was walking in cool shade or under the baking sun. I was getting overheated under the sun, and my body was signaling for me to reduce the pace or stop. Once in the shade, I was moving fast, as if I were full of energy again.

Things done right

• 4.5 liters of water each way was sufficient.

• The Billabong boardshorts I was wearing were super comfortable and quick-drying.

• The one-person tent worked out great.

• I had a rope with me, which I used to secure the tent.

• Spray sunscreen did a good job of protecting from sunburns.

• The waterproof Fitbit I wore came in handy, as I used it to wake me up at night in case I fell asleep on the beach outside of the tent.

Things I would do differently

• I did not wear the sunglasses I had with me.

• I would take a straw filter instead of iodine pills.

• I would take a knife - to open coconuts or just in case.

• Shin protection - either long pants or long socks - because those plants will "massage and caress" you if you move gently but will strike and cut your skin if you move fast.

• A hydration bladder type of bottle to be able to sip frequently without touching the bottle with dirty hands https://www.amazon.com/Hydration-Reservoir-Military-Replacement-Climbing/dp/B071DQSZB8

• Protect toes to prevent ingrown toenails and calluses.

• Matches and foil for a fire to be able to cook seafood.

How did it feel physically?

After arriving at the camp and taking an hour of rest, I felt absolutely great, probably due to the post-workout euphoria. My legs (quadriceps) were in pain for the next couple of days after returning to the hotel.

Encounters on the trail

I ran into dozens of people throughout the two days of hiking, mostly young to middle-aged couples. I saw a lady who was hiking with a child on her back. There was someone with a dog. At least 3 people appeared to be hippies living there, since they were walking barefoot without any gear, some chewing wild fruits.

Fauna and flowers I was able to recognize

• Nene geese

• Lots of goats

• Crabs on the beach

• Wild papayas

• Coconut trees

Conclusion

The hike consisted of 9 + 6 = 15 hours of pretty much non-stop workout split into two days. I hated many of those hours while on the trail. But it was 100% worth it for me, and I am looking forward to doing it again!

Aloha!